Indian Silver
 Jewelry has a
significant place in the culture of India. This is no
recent development. Ancient sculptures and paintings
show deities and common folk clad with exquisite
jewelry. Archeological finds also document the long
held significance that jewelry has played in Indian
culture. Rings, bangles, and other jewelry of
exquisite workmanship have been found dating back to at
least 3500 B.C.
Historical
documents show that silversmiths and goldsmiths were
held in high esteem in ancient Indian culture. That the
people of India buy jewelry for investment reveals why
most jewelry from this country contains precious metals
or gems. Gold and silver jewelry, in particular, is
valued both for its beauty and its investment value.
Traditionally, women in India did not inherit land or
own property jointly. Instead of property, they were
often given a share of the family’s wealth in the form
of precious jewelry, made to the highest standards of
craftsmanship. When a woman marries, she is given
jewelry by both her family and the family of her newly
wedded husband. The jewelry is intended to be used, of
course, but serves the function of providing a nest egg
for future rainy days. Gold will usually be given by
wealthier families, silver by less affluent ones.
The
incorporation of gems into Indian silver and gold
jewelry is often attributed to Muslim influences. India
is home to vast reserves of gemstones, which are
believed to have supernatural powers among some Indian
cultures. Of particular cultural significance are
emeralds, sapphires, diamonds, rubies and amethyst.
India is a land of many cultures, each with its own
style of jewelry. To the north, the Kundan style
emerged, which involves setting glass or crystal into
silver or gold. Another style from this region is known
as Meenakari, which sets stones into gold. To the
Northeast, jewelry-makers turn to nature, with plants,
mammals and birds appearing in many forms. Gold tends
to be preferred over silver in this region. As one
moves further into the Kashmir region, silver head
dresses can be found, often incorporating coral and
turquoise to create pieces reminiscent of the Tibetan
style. In other tribal regions, silver and gold may be
used, sometimes together in a single piece, and often
integrated with beads, shells, and ivory. In Orissa,
there are tribes where filigree silver and gold are the
dominant art forms. To the South, large gold jewelry is
preferred, often with astronomical symbols. Silver
beads are made throughout India.
India’s Metallurgy Tradition
India has been home to advanced
metallurgical skills for eons. Iron beams in ancient
temples reveal an ability to generate rust-free alloys
more than 2000 years ago, and probably much longer.
Indeed, copper objects dating back to 6000 B.C. have
been unearthed. The Harrapan civilization of India were
producing silver and gold alloys more than 4000 years
ago. Gold and silver coins dating back as early as 400
B.C. have been found at archeological sites. India is
often credited as being the first civilization to master
the extraction of zinc from zinc ore, perhaps in the
1100s, and 400 years before the Chinese.
Some Common Indian Jewelry Terms
Here are a few terms one
is likely to encounter when shopping for India jewelry:
·
Bangles: stiff bracelets
·
Chakti: toe rings
·
Jhumkas: Dangling earrings, similar in
form to what westerners refer to as “chandelier
earrings”
·
Kadas: A set of bracelets worn together
·
Nath: nose rings
·
Tikha: round pendants for one’s forehead
·
Payals: anklets with bells
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